This is wildly expressive in aromatic terms at this point in its development, with some striking, borderline barnyard, old cask notes that never step over the line into seeming dirty or bretty or — as the French would say, animal. Nearly a light-bodied wine (in a world that has ever fewer of them), this is so packed with character that the overall effect is uncanny — like 3 liters of wine in a 750 ml bottle, but not because of anything heavy. A wild ride, and a fun one!